This short guide tells you what to check and when to service your CVT. It explains why the specialized fluid matters and how it keeps belt-and-pulley systems working smoothly.
Inspect the unit for leaks and check the level every 10,000 miles or 12 months. Replace the fluid at the intervals listed in the Owner’s Manual — commonly 30,000 or 60,000 miles depending on use and model.
What you’ll learn: exact fill amounts for GE0F10C and RE0F10D setups, how FWD versus AWD and coolers affect total quarts, and signs that oil performance has degraded. The guide also covers safe drain-and-fill steps, approved fluids, washers, and basic tools.
When unsure, consult a dealer to verify VIN-specific recommendations and avoid costly mistakes. Follow the level check procedure to prevent underfill or overfill and keep shifts smooth.
Key Takeaways
- Check CVT fluid and seals every 10,000 miles or 12 months.
- Service intervals often fall at 30,000 or 60,000 miles based on conditions.
- Know your model’s fill in quarts and how driveline options change totals.
- Use approved oil, new crush washers, and the correct torque on drain plugs.
- When unsure, get a dealer VIN check to confirm specs.
Overview: Why CVT fluid matters for your Nissan Rogue
The right CVT lubricant maintains pressure and friction so the belt and pulleys work as designed.
CVT transmission fluid supplies the hydraulic pressure needed for smooth ratio changes. It also protects gears and bearings while setting the friction level the belt requires to transmit torque.
Over time heat and microscopic wear particles degrade its properties. As a result, you may notice shudder, flare or reduced performance if the oil is old or contaminated.
Regular checks every 10,000 miles or 12 months help you spot leaks, discoloration, or a burnt smell early. Timed service matters as much as mileage, especially with short trips, towing, or hot climates.
“Using the correct approved CVT fluid preserves calibrated friction characteristics and minimizes the risk of slip or chatter.”
- Inspect and change at intervals that match your model and use.
- Use approved oil to keep shift feel consistent.
- When in doubt, consult a dealer for VIN-specific guidance.
For a deeper look at recommended service cycles and examples, see this guide on CVT change intervals: CVT transmission fluid change interval.
Identify your Rogue’s transmission and capacity at present
Locate the VIN label on the driver door jamb and the transmission ID plate to confirm the exact unit in your vehicle. This lets you match the correct total fill and initial drain-and-fill method before you start.
Next, note drivetrain and cooler setup. Check whether the car is FWD or AWD and whether an external CVT cooler (OCOOL) sits near the radiator. That small difference changes total quarts significantly.
Match to GE0F10C or RE0F10D and common fill ranges
- GE0F10C — total ~7.8 quarts; initial drain ~3.2 quarts; uses VTF12.
- RE0F10D — total ~8.3 quarts; common on many 2nd generation models (2014–2020); also uses VTF12.
- 2011+ variations by drivetrain/cooler:
- AWD with OCOOL: ~9.0 quarts
- AWD without OCOOL: ~8.8 quarts
- FWD with OCOOL: ~7.9 quarts
- FWD without OCOOL: ~7.7 quarts
Confirm the plug location and level procedure for your unit; the correct plug and temperature window determine a proper level check. Keep your VIN handy when buying parts to ensure correct washers and the right oil type.
| Transmission Code | Total Fill (quarts) | Initial Drain (quarts) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| GE0F10C | 7.8 | 3.2 | VTF12; earlier models |
| RE0F10D | 8.3 | — | Common on 2nd generation (2014–2020); VTF12 |
| 2011+ AWD w/ OCOOL | 9.0 | — | External cooler increases system volume |
| 2011+ FWD w/o OCOOL | 7.7 | — | Lower total when no external cooler |
Nissan Rogue Transmission Fluid Capacity by generation and drivetrain
Different model years and drivetrains change the total system fill and how much you actually replace during a routine service.
Total fill is the full system volume after an overhaul; an initial drain-and-fill swaps only part of that total. GE0F10C systems hold about 7.8 quarts (7.4 L) with roughly 3.2 quarts removed in a first drain. RE0F10D totals near 8.3 quarts (7.9 L).
- 2011+ AWD w/ OCOOL: ~9.0 qt; AWD w/o OCOOL ~8.8 qt.
- 2011+ FWD: ~7.9 qt with OCOOL, ~7.7 qt without.
- Pre‑2011 models: generally run ~0.5–1.0 qt higher due to larger cooler circuits.
For the 2nd generation (2014 – 2020) models, most configurations match RE0F10D totals; small differences depend on FWD vs AWD and the external cooler. Plan purchases accordingly so you have enough quarts on hand and avoid leftover sealed containers.
“A single drain replaces only a portion; staged services refresh more of the system without special equipment.”
| Code / Setup | Total (qt) | Initial drain (qt) |
|---|---|---|
| GE0F10C | 7.8 | 3.2 |
| RE0F10D (common 2014 2020) | 8.3 | ~3.0 |
| 2011+ AWD w/ OCOOL | 9.0 | — |
Fluids, tools, and parts: what you need before a fluid change
Gather the right parts and set up a clean work area before you lift the car. Preparing ahead avoids wasted time and last‑minute trips to the store.
Approved CVT types and how many quarts to buy
Match the spec to your unit. Many GE0F10C and RE0F10D units call for VTF12. Several AWD/FWD setups with an external cooler use VTF11. Plan quantities: GE0F10C drain ≈ 3.2 quart per service; RE0F10D similar. Total system fills range from ~7.7 to 9.0 quarts depending on drivetrain and cooler.
Drain plug, crush washers, and basic tools
- Bring new crush washers for the drain and the leveling plug to prevent seepage.
- Basic kit: metric sockets, torque wrench, funnel, fluid pump, thermometer or scan tool.
- A low‑profile pan sized for 4–6 quarts makes measuring removed fluid easier.
Safety gear and workspace
Work on a flat place using ramps or jack stands at factory lift points. Wear gloves and eye protection. Keep rags and a bright light to clean fittings and check for leaks.
If you see multiple approved oil options for your VIN, call a dealer to confirm the exact spec before opening bottles.
How to check level and condition of CVT fluid at present
Bring the vehicle to operating temperature with a short drive before any checks. This helps the oil reach the working range so readings match in-service conditions.
Warm-up, safe lifting points, and inspection steps
Park the car on a flat surface and secure it using ramps or jack stands at factory lift points. Remove the undertray if fitted and clean the case area to avoid contaminating the service opening.
With the engine idling and the parking brake set, cycle through all gear ranges briefly to purge air pockets. Locate the designated leveling plug and have a new crush washer ready if the procedure calls for removal.
Using the leveling plug to verify correct fluid level
Follow the manufacturer temperature window and the specific method for cracking the port. A slight trickle means the level is correct. A steady stream means overfill; no flow means underfill.
Visually inspect the fluid color and smell. Bright, translucent oil is healthy. Dark, brown, or burnt-smelling oil shows oxidation and needs service.
“Check the system every 10,000 miles or 12 months to catch small leaks before they cause drivability issues.”
| Check | Sign | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Level at temp | Slight trickle | Leave plug; record check |
| Overfill | Steady stream | Drain to correct level |
| Underfill | No outflow | Find leak, top off, recheck |
Track inspections by miles and time so you spot slow leaks early. If the service history is unknown, plan a full drain-and-fill rather than topping off to avoid mixing types. When unsure about the temperature windows or sequence, stop and review the method before proceeding.
Step-by-step transmission fluid change and refill procedure
A clear plan before you open any plugs saves time and prevents common mistakes during a first-time change.
Drain and fill method for first-time DIYers
Warm the car with a short drive so the oil reaches operating temperature. Park on level ground and remove the undertray. Identify the drain bolt, the level port, and the fill path before loosening anything.
Place a catch pan under the drain. Remove the drain plug and record how many quarts come out. GE0F10C systems typically yield about 3.2 quart on an initial drain; RE0F10D is similar. Measure and set that same amount aside for the refill step.
Torque specs, refill amounts, and rechecking level
Always fit new crush washers on the drain and level plugs. Torque the drain plug to manufacturer spec—use a torque wrench and avoid overtightening to protect threads.
Refill through the fill port or dipstick tube with the approved oil for your unit. Add the same volume you removed, then start the engine and cycle gears to purge air. When the fluid reaches the specified temperature, open the level feature briefly. Add small amounts until you see a slight trickle, which indicates correct level. Re-torque service plugs after the check, clean the case, reinstall the undertray, and road test.
Common mistakes forum members note and how to avoid them
- Mixing types: Use only the approved oil for your code; mixing causes poor shift feel.
- Reusing washers: Replace crush washers every service to prevent leaks.
- Guessing volume: Measure what drains out—don’t rely on estimates.
- Wrong temperature: Check level in the correct temp window to avoid overfill or underfill.
“Staged drain-and-fill sessions spaced days apart replace more of the system without a machine.”
| Step | Typical quantity | Key note |
|---|---|---|
| Initial drain (GE0F10C) | ~3.2 quart | Measure and save same amount for refill |
| Total system (RE0F10D) | ~8.3 qt | Full overhaul needs more than a single drain |
| Torque & sealing | Use torque wrench | Always fit new crush washers |
| Staged exchange | Repeat drain fill | Drive between sessions to warm oil |
Notes: Keep records of volumes and observations. Dispose of used oil at a proper recycling center. For a detailed step-by-step visual guide, see this step-by-step CVT change guide.
Maintenance intervals and driving conditions guidance
Plan inspections and services around how you drive, not just the odometer.
Baseline: Inspect the system every 10,000 miles or 12 months.
For many gasoline 2nd generation (2014 2020) cars, scheduled change ranges fall between 30,000 and 60,000 miles depending on service severity and model guidance.
Standard vs severe service
Standard use: follow the longer interval and inspect as noted. Severe use—towing, frequent short trips, hot climates, or steep grades—shortens recommended change intervals.
Hybrids and vehicles in severe service often benefit from earlier changes, commonly around 15,000–30,000 miles to prevent accelerated wear.
“Time matters as much as miles—short trips that never warm the oil age it faster.”
Practical tips before you change
- Keep one or two extra quarts on hand to fine-tune level at temperature after the procedure.
- Monitor color and smell; dark or burnt oil is a cue to change sooner.
- When unsure about your schedule, consult a dealer with your VIN for exact guidance.
- Record every service date and miles to build a reliable maintenance history.
| Service type | Inspect interval | Typical change interval |
|---|---|---|
| Standard driving | 10,000 miles / 12 months | 30,000–60,000 miles |
| Severe use / hybrids | 10,000 miles / 12 months | 15,000–30,000 miles |
| Condition-based | Inspect at each check | Change if dark, burnt odor, or high temps |
FAQ
What is the recommended CVT fluid type for my 2nd generation Rogue (2014–2020)?
Use manufacturer-approved CVT fluid such as VTF-NS2 / VTF11 or the later VTF12 where specified. Check your owner’s manual or the service label under the hood to confirm the correct formula for your model year and drivetrain before buying fluid.
How much fluid do I need for a drain-and-fill versus a full overhaul?
A simple drain-and-fill typically removes 40–60% of the total volume and requires roughly 3–5 quarts depending on FWD or AWD and whether an external cooler is present. A total fill (full rebuild or torque converter drained) needs the full system volume, which can range from about 7–10 quarts. Always verify specific amounts for your model and configuration.
How do I identify whether my vehicle uses GE0F10C or RE0F10D style CVT?
Identify by model year, VIN details, or the transmission code on the service tag. Forums and parts dealers can cross-reference the code to confirm GE0F10C or RE0F10D. Vehicle build sheets or a dealer service department can also provide the exact designation.
What tools and parts should I buy before attempting a DIY fluid change?
Essential items include the correct CVT fluid, a new crush washer for the drain plug, the leveling (fill) plug seal if required, a torque wrench, socket set, ramps or jack stands, safety gloves, and a large catch pan. A funnel with tubing helps when refilling through the leveling plug.
How do I check the fluid level correctly?
Warm the vehicle to operating temperature and park on level ground. Lift the front safely and locate the leveling plug on the side of the case. Remove the plug; fluid should be at the plug opening. If it drips out slowly, level is correct. If none flows, add fluid until a small stream appears, then tighten to spec.
What torque specs should I use for drain and leveling plugs?
Use torque specs from the service manual for your model year. As a guideline, drain plug torque is generally low to medium (typically 25–40 ft-lbs) while leveling plug torque is lighter. Always confirm exact numbers from official documentation to avoid damage.
How often should I change the CVT fluid under normal and severe conditions?
Inspect fluid every 10,000 miles or 12 months. Under normal driving, many recommend a service interval around 30,000–60,000 miles for a fluid replacement depending on model year. For severe use (towing, heavy city traffic, frequent mountain driving), perform changes more frequently and inspect often.
What signs indicate the CVT fluid needs to be changed now?
Dark, burnt-smelling fluid, slipping, shuddering during acceleration, hesitation, or unusual noises are strong indicators. Also check for metal flakes in the pan or on the magnet during a drain; this warrants further inspection or professional service.
Can I perform a drain-and-fill at home, or should I go to a dealer?
DIY drain-and-fill is feasible with the right tools and a clear procedure. However, achieving the exact level and using the correct fluid formula is critical. If you lack experience, the special tools, or confidence, a dealer or experienced independent shop can ensure proper service and maintain warranty compliance.
What common mistakes do forum members report when changing CVT fluid?
Common errors include using the wrong fluid type, overfilling or underfilling, not warming the vehicle first, failing to replace crush washers, and not torquing plugs to spec. These mistakes can lead to poor performance or damage, so follow procedures and double-check parts and quantities.
